Tony’s Seafood is a awesome seize in Marshall

by Hungryginie

Tony’s Seafood within the tiny hamlet of Marshall become a captivating little seafood eating place till it wasn’t.

For nearly 70 years, the ramshackle little fish house became a coastal favorite run through a Croatian fishing family. But by the time the restaurant modified fingers in 2017, the eating place changed into a fading relic from every other technology.

After a two-12 months redesign by the owners of Hog Island Oyster Co., Tony’s has been reborn right into a vibrant, modern seafood residence with some of the exceptional meals and nice perspectives of Tomales Bay.

Old oyster shells clutter the ground at the strip of land south of the comfortable restaurant, giving a fulfilling crunch underfoot. There is almost no parking, so assume to pull perilously close to a steep drop-off, then tiptoe your manner over shells to the pier-supported restaurant. The scent of brine is a partner for the marginally harrowing journey, but the reward of a at ease, a modern-day room packed with daylight and bowls of shells on each desk.

Shells, of direction, are what you’re here for, or greater specifically what’s in the — clams, mussels, crab, shrimp and, of the route, oysters. There’s sparkling Alaska cod, halibut, salmon and anchovies alongside a handful of seafood-unfastened gadgets just like Tony’s burger, or battered-veggies and local vegetables, however, certainly, seafood is what’s at the menu.

Chef and forager Matt Shapiro runs the kitchen and makes a specialty of seashore classics along with his very own twists. The longtime Hog Island toque knows what coastal travelers need, from fish and chips and clam chowder to crab sandwiches, uncooked oysters and oyster po’ boys. What makes Tony’s well worth the experience, but, are the little touches — house-made tartar sauce, creamy flourless chowder with piles of candy clams, and simply-from-the-ocean components.

Best Bets

HIOC Clam Chowder, $sixteen: Hog Island proprietor John Finger developed this recipe with absolutes, no flour to thicken it and handiest sparkling clams. Hog Island grows Manila clams similarly to oysters, so the candy little clams are piled high inside the bowl, shells on, making it an interactive experience as well as a tasty one. It’s heavy on the great things, aromatic herbs, sparkling cream and bacon, and light at the fillers (potatoes and carrots). This is what chowder ought to continually be and rarely ever achieves.

Whole SF Anchovies, $eleven: Even experienced eaters can be disposed of via a plate of fish returning your gaze, however, those little anchovies are deboned and gently fried with a blast of furikake (a mixture of dried fish, sesame seeds, seaweed, sugar, and salt) and served with togarashi-sesame aioli and lime. Pop the finger-sized fish into your mouth whole and prepare for fireworks of flavor. Bonus, there’s no oily, overly salty, fishy flavor to these sparkling anchovies.

Baked Stuffed Butter Clams, $15: Minced clams are mixed with bacon, jalapeno, thyme, celery, and breadcrumbs and baked onto a scallop shell. It’s an extraordinary alternative to uncooked oysters if that’s no longer your jam.

Fish & Chips & Slaw, $21: Local rock cod is usual at the coast, but Tony’s makes use of Alaska “True” Cod, a sweeter, more huge cod that changed into initially determined at the East Coast. Sustainably sourced, it’s honestly plenty better than rock cod. Light breading and house-made tartar sauce that’s flavorful and slightly runny in place of mayonnaise quicksand that swallows up the whole piece of fish.

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Tony’s Burger, $17: Is it the pleasant burger ever? Nope, but it’s a truly good burger made with regionally sourced Stemple Creek pork. The thick patty is cooked flawlessly medium-uncommon and topped with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and tartar sauce. Served with thin-cut fries. The original Tony’s become known for their burger, and this one will pay homage to that subculture.

Halibut Crudo, $15: Thin slices of raw halibut go with the flow on slices of Granny Smith apples in a shallow pool of jalapeño oil and lime juice. It’s very, very tart and the lime barely overpowers. But eaten with the apple, which seems nearly candy in assessment, lightens the dish.

Today’s Oysters: Pacific and Atlantic oysters are each on the menu, even though oddly on the day we visited there were no Hog Island oysters from the close by the farm. Apparently, conditions handiest lately have become the gold standard for the Hogs, and they’ll quickly return.

Drinks

A quick but well-matched wine listing with plenty of crisp whites and glowing wines with the aid of the glass or bottle. The Hog Island Oyster Wine, White Rhone Blend, $12 according to glass, has fine acidity with hints of lemon. Works fantastically with raw seafood especially.

Local beers, which includes Henhouse Oyster Stout plus Mexican Coke and Sprite, house lemonade and teas.

Needs Improvement

CA Dungeness Crab Sandwich, $21: It’s quit of the season for clean crab, and this version simply doesn’t truly do the neighborhood crab justice, lacking the wonder that makes nearby Dungeness so amazing. The crab salad felt a bit dry, made with celery, dijon and house-made mayo. The ciabatta bun made the entirety even drier. A smushy roll, more mayo and a little much less mustard might have made this a greater exciting revel in.

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